The Farmer's Garden: Wind and Standing Up Plants

Rain mixed with high wind is almost always a bad combination for blowing over tall plants that have weak stems and/or heavy fruit. When this happens, they need to be stood back up to prevent trampling, stay off mold due to the leaves staying contact with a wet ground, enable ease of access to nearby plants, allow for future plowing, ensuring sunlight gets back into contact with the plant, etc.

Recently, a big rain and wind storm came in that blew my corn over. Most didn't break because they're flimsy (high-tech term) enough to withstand breakage, but they did have to be stood up right again. Here are some tips on standing plants back up again.

1. Though plants like tomatoes can be stood back up when young, they really need a structure. If not, when they're taller, they'll most likely break off in a bad wind storm. Corn stalks blow over, but the stalk is strong enough not to break.

2. Be gentle because the stalk/stem is saturated with water and is probably tender. If you are too rough with the plant, it may break and thus defeat the whole purpose.

3. Don't try to stand everything up when the mud is still relatively sloshy. It's too loose and want keep the plant in place when you try to stand it back up. Wait until the mud dries a little just after the storm.

4. Don't wait more than a day or so to stand plants back up. Otherwise, they will begin to take root in their blown over position. Once this occurs, trying to straighten the plant will probably break the stalk/stem and cause further damage.

5. If the plant has been left blown over for too long and roots have already entrenched themselves again, try stand it up some but not too much. At this point, you just have to let the plant grow in an odd direction. This brings much aggravation because it is difficult to get in between plants at this point and various critters are more likely to trample on a plant that is not meant to withstand trampling.

6. Within a few hours, especially if the sun comes out or if it's warm, the ground will begin to firm up as the water evaporates and drains a bit. At this time, bring dirt near the plant, but don't just chunk dirt on the plant, or it may break. Rather, hold the plant up, and then pack dirt around the base of the plant going up 2-6 inches depending on the size of the plant. If the plant still falls down, you may need to pack it more, go up higher on the stem/stalk, or use drier dirt if available (let the mud dry if no extra stored dried dirt is available).

This whole process involved getting dirty, so just put on some old clothes, and get to it. Happy Straigtening!

The Farmer's Garden: Those Pesky Weeds

Weeds are a constant threat to your garden. They grow quickly and choke out everything in their path. Here are some tips to control weeds in your garden that does not require strong herbicides (ie chemicals used to kill and/or prevent weeds).

1) When initially preparing the soil, pull out the exisiting weeds and their respective root systems. By tilling the ground well, it levels the playing field. This will not eliminate weeds, but it does get everything off on the right foot.

2) As soon as you see weeds sprout, immediately pull them up. This takes consistent discipline; however, keeping out weeds will help your garden thrive. Not only will their be less competition between your garden plants and weeds, but this will ensure that the weeds are not stealing all the water and nutrients.

3) Check daily to see if new weeds have come up, especially after big rains. A small weed is much easier to uproot than a large one, and rooting out small ones prevent them from multiplying when they are old enough to reproduce.

4) A fast way to get rid of weeds between rows is to plow between the rows of plants. Not only does this kick dirt back up to the plants, but it also tears out weeds. If the rows are narrow, I reccomend just using a good hoe and/or a steel toothed rake.

5) Pull weeds when the grond is moist. If the ground is hard, you need to water the garden anyway. Don't wait until a rain comes to pull weeds; just shower the garden, and pull out the weeds when the soil has been softened up enough to pull them out by the root.

6) Many of your garden plants will have broad leaves, so, if you keep the garden thinned of weeds while the plants are young, the broad leaves of squash and such will block out the sun and keep weeds from growing underneath them as they grow larger.

7) Remember, as your plants grow, they will be able to fight off weeds when they are large and strong because they are now the dominant plants in the garden and not the weeds. This does not mean that weeds won't grow, but strong healthy plants can compete much better than unhealthy plants. Therefore, baby your plants with food, water, structuring, etc.

8) Don't pull weeds in the heat of the day! It's too hot and not worth the heat stroke. Just get up early or pull weeds late in the afternoon and evening. I recall a funny scene where I saw a lady at a local park who apparently seemed to have little experience in gardening/farm life. It was really hot, and I saw her out there pulling weeds. Sweat was pouring off, and the weeds were out of control. The weeds had gotten out of hand, and the heat was draining her every last breath. It was amusing because many people don't realize how much work a garden can take. They think you just throw some seeds, and wallah! A bountiful harvest! That's not how it works; it takes time and discipline, yet knowing what time of day to do things makes garden a whole lot easier and more fruitful.

In light of the Fall, weeds are part of gardening. Nevertheless, God has granted common grace, which means that He has given us insight in numerous ways to help prevent and reduce weed growth. For that I am immensely thankful. Glory to Him! Amen!

The Farmer's Garden: Good Structures Around Limber Plants

Notice Tomato and Pepper Stakes: May 13, 2010

Green Bean Stake & Trellis: May 13, 2010

Tomato Stakes: May 13, 2010

Certain plants are more prone to catastrophic breakage when faced with harsh weather. They tend to be plants that grow several feet tall, have weak stems, and produce a heavy fruit. Tomatoes are like this especially. At times, they can suffer even if no storms have come, for the sheer weight of the large tomatoes makes the plant lean severely and even break.

Therefore, proper structures set up around the plants not only improve stability, but they also keep the fruit well off the ground. There are several ways to do this. A popular way is to use stakes, whether wood or bamboo. Trellises are also used, but they can be expensive if made from metal.

I use some kind of stake and trellis combo, and this year I decided to buy a large number of bamboo stakes. They are much less expensive if bought in bulk, but they need to be dried out before use to reduce rotting at the base. Here are some tips on structuring:

1. It is important to structure the plants when they are young so that plant survivability is increased from the beginning. This can be done when the plants are older, but you do run the risk of damaging the root system at this point.

2. With regard to the rope used for the stakes/trellis, I use a strong twine that is not expensive and does not cut into the stem of the plant. Aesthetically, brown twine tends to blend in against the bamboo.

3. When tying the plants to the stake/trellis, be careful not to 'cut' into the stem. The plant should be firmly bound, but the stem should not be severed. This could kill the plant immediately or open it up to infection and disease. This is why I do not reccomend fishing line. Furthermore, as the plants grows taller, continue to tie the main stem to the stake/trellis every 6-12 inches.

4. Stakes should be pounded into the ground at least a foot if at all possible to help stablize the plants when wind and hail approach. If the the stake is driven too shallow, it could fall over and do more harm than good by breaking the plant it is attached to or even other surrounding plants.

5. Tall stakes are preferable because this allows for plenty of height should the plant increase in height substantially. For example, right now, my tomato plants are about six weeks old and at or almost 2 1/2 feet tall. If I had short stakes, they would have already almost out-grown them very early in the growing season. My stakes are 7 feet long, and one foot of that is in the ground, so the plants have plenty of growing height left.

6. Three common garden varieties that I reccommend staking/trellising are tomatoes, peppers, and beans/peas. I even encourage giving the peppers plenty of potential growing height, for last year my pepper plants were tall, and the jalapeno plant was about 6 feet or more!

Staking/trellissing does take time and effort, but the rewards are well worth the work. The structures don't have to cost a lot, but they do require some effort, and the long term benefits will put a smile on your face and the face of those who enjoy the fruit of your labor!

Happy Gardening! To Him be glory! Amen!

The Farmer's Garden: Moisture Check

Baby Corn Plants

Moisture content is one of the highest priorites to keep tabs on; after all, plants suffer with too much or too little water. Here are some easy ways to check moisture content in your garden and resolve any potential hazards.

1. Scratch the ground near the plants. If the soil feels moist after a couple inches (inch or two for very young tiny plants), the plants probably don't need watering. During prolonged periods of heavy rain, the ground can become quite saturated, so don't feel like you're not watering enough when the ground is clearly still moist. If you have to dig more than two-three inches to reach some kind of moisture, your plants probably need watering.

2. Watch for yellowing of leaves. Most garden plants bear perky brilliant green leaves, so if they start to turn yellow, something is wrong, and it is probably due to drought or drowning. If the moisture content is too high, then plant leaves will start to turn yellow and probably start to sag a bit. Scratching the ground will clue you in on that (see #1). If the ground is quite dry, then the plant is probably suffering from drought, so it needs watering. If it is really dry, and the ground is very hard, don't flood the garden. The ground needs to be moistened first so that it will actually absorb the water and not run off somewhere or form a 'small pond' that attracts unwanted critters and possible mold growth at the base of the plant. Also, if the ground is hard and the plants cannot sway much without snapping, heavy watering can cause them to snap as they bend under the high pressure before the ground can loosen up to prevent this. Therefore, give it a slow evening soak.

3. Watch for mold growth. If you notice mold or other fungi growth on the plants or on the ground near the plants, your garden is too wet. Do not water it, or you will make it worse. Let the sun dry your garden out.

4. Watch for flimsy plants. As plants grow taller, they will sway without support structures. However, if your plants appear to totter easily, that's a sign that the ground is highly saturated. Don't water, and let the sun and breeze dry things out.

5. Watch for burn spots and browning of the leaves at the ends. Burn spots can be large or small, and they tend to be brown or reddish brown. This can also occur around the edges or at the tips of the leaves. This indicates that your plants are not receiving enough water, so scratch the ground. If the ground appears moist, then it may just be the intense heat of the summer, and your plants may be at the end of their harvesting cycle.

6. Watch for cracking or splitting of the stems. If the plants begin to split and crack open a lot, they're probably not receiving enough water. However, as indicated in #5, they could be at the end of their harvest cycle due to intense heat.

If a plant doesn't have enough water, it's not that hard to put water on, but it is hard to take it off. As my Daddy would say, "You can put water on, but you can't take it off." What he means by this is that it is much easier to irrigate than to keep the plant from drowning if the rains are relentless. I always prefer a drier year than a wetter year for that very reason; I'd rather do the work of irrigating that watch my plants drown. Therefore, prior preparation is critical when heavy prolonged rains come. Here are some suggestions:

1. Stay up do date on the weather. One of the worst combinations is heavy rain, high winds, and hail. The rain loosens the soil, and then heavy winds and hail beat the plants to death and/or blow them down causing catastropic damage if severe breakage occurs. By knowing when rains are coming several days in advance, you can do your garden favor by 1) having good structural supports, and 2) by not watering it when you know the wind is probably going to come right after that. If I perceive heavy rains are coming a few days out, I'll let the soil dry out a bit just to prepare for the rains. However, you don't want the ground to be rock hard either, for heavy wind and hail will snap plants off at the base. Soil that has a good balance between wet and dry will allow the plants to sway so as not to snap while at the same time be firm enough to withstand the wind and hail when it comes.

2. Plant on a slight (emphasis on slight) inline with high hilled rows that run parallel with the incline to help direct the flow of water out of the garden.

3. If your area is relatively flat, high hilled rows are even more critical. Not only do high hilled rows keep moisture in the plant and support the plant in general, but they really help to reduce flooding damage.

4. If you are planting in raised boxes, of which I have several this year, pile as much dirt as you can so that the box is less likely to develop 'small ponds'. Hills are just as needed here as well. I filled my boxes up to the brim, and I added more in some areas once the garden settled a bit more. In spite of all the heavy rain here of late, my boxes have not suffered from a lot of 'ponding'.

5. If your area of the country is prone to heavy rains, plant with greater density. The more plants you have in a given space, the more water they will need, so they will naturally need more water as they compete with each other which will most likely reduce drowning problems. If it does turn out to be a dry year, you'll just have to water more or simply thin out your plants. However, don't plant everything so close that your plant stems cannot develop properly.

6. Sandy soil will tend to retain less moisture, so mixing a bit in your garden is helpful if the area is prone to regulary heavy rains.

7. Clay soil will tend to retain more moisture, so high hilled rows on an incline or filled to the brim boxes are a must.

8. When you do irrigate, don't do it in the middle of the day if at all possible. Not only will the ground retain less of the water because of high evaporation rates, but it can also cause the roots to burn. Burning can occur as the roots detect moisture and immediately reach to the top but then are burned by the sun as they approach the area just below the surface. This can especially occur when it is dry and the plants receive a light shower and then high heat bears down on them from the sun right afterwards.

Ultimately, the Lord brings a good harvest, and a primary means by which this happens is acknowledging our dependence on Him and then following up on that with good stewardship to His glory! Amen!

The Farmer's Garden: Baby Your Plants!

Baby Squash

Baby tomato plants, Moriah. Be gentle!

Beginning of April

Growing A Bit: 2nd-3rd Week Of April

Garden crops are like children: they are needy! They get hungry, thirsty, hot, and cold. Wind and hail bear upon them. Weeds ravage them, and critters consume them. Whew! That's a tough life!

It is true that some things grow relatively easy, but most of the vegetables and fruits that we desire tend require steadfast labor because they are so needy. Therefore, if you don't baby your plants, they will not produce much and may even produce nothing. How sad :(

I call it babying your plants; the Bible calls this good stewardship. Tending the garden was work from the very beginning, yet it was far more pleasant and easy without all the potential disasters looming every minute of every day.

Here are some key ways to baby your plants, and, by all means, let the kids help:

1. Pray, pray, pray that God will bless your work, work, work.

2. Check on them every day and even twice a day if at all possible.

3. Different plants require different amounts of sunshine; plant accordingly.

4. Be aware of the forecast, and prepare your garden ahead of time.

5. Be watchful for dry or swampy soil; moisture content is critical for their health.

6. Take note of critter tracks and/or bug bites; a fence or some bug spray (organic or conventional) may be required.

7. If you see yellowing of the bright green leaves, this usually means something is wrong: either or too dry or too wet, so check the moisture content of the ground.

8. Ensure that your plants have strong supports if needed.

9. Keep them fertilized whether with organic or conventional methods.

10. Finally, don't let those weeds get out of control; pull them as soon as you see them!

A great garden does take work, but the end rewards are worth all the work. Not only is the final harvest fresh and healthy, but it is also economical because you will be able to store up for the winter through canning, freezing, drying, etc.

Ultimately, God alone can make something grow. Therefore, let us praise Him and bask in His glory as He blesses the fruit of our labor according to His good pleasure! Amen!

The Farmer's Garden: Agriculture From A Creationist Farmer's Perspective

Creationists today are often caricatured as incompetent when it comes to the hard sciences, yet such character attacks prove to be the result of losing a worldview debate. In light of this, it is my intent to demonstrate that creationists contribute to the hard sciences all the time. Though there are many fields of science that interest me, my greatest experiential knowledge lies within the realm of agriculture.

Besides experience I gained from assisting with a rather large family garden (3-5 acres annually), I have been blessed with an enormous amount of experience in field crops because I was raised on a farm for most of my youth. Without hesitation, I attribute most of this insight to my father; may God bless him for passing this on to me.

Tragically, I was unable to grow anything of substance for over a decade (Oh, the weeping I know!). However, I was able to begin gardening again two years ago, and our recently purchased home has reopened some excellent opportunites. To my suprise, questions are posed to me regularly, so I have decided to publish weekly (more or less) insights on various gardening suggestions from a farmer's perspective while at the same time contribute to the field of creation science.

Not everyone will agree with my suggestions or comments, but I will do my best to lend out some practical knowledge that I have found resourceful.